Spring Time River Trips

. Monet in Paris


Monet a spring cruise on the Seine until early June (summer starts officially on June 21) and with luck the water lilies immortalised by Claude Monet will be in flower. His Giverny gardens are not to be missed; trips to Honfleur and Auvers-sur-Oise, where Van Gogh died, reveal more about the impressionists.

Avalon (0800 668 1843; avaloncruises.co.uk) offers an eight-day Paris to Normandy cruise round-trip from £2,539 per person full board including flights, drinks with meals, most tours and tips. Departs June 9.

2. Music on the Danube

Spring is perfect for a river cruise to Budapest, as the city’s museums, concert halls and streets come alive with music, art, dance and opera to celebrate the largest cultural festival in Hungary (March 30 to April 22 in 2018). Music lovers will delight in Mozart and Strauss concerts in Vienna, and seeing Mozart’s childhood violin and his music manuscripts in the Salzburg house, now a museum, where he was born.

Uniworld (0808 281 1125; uniworld.com) offers a 10-day Enchanting Danube and Munich cruise-and-stay pairing two nights in Munich with a cruise from Passau to Budapest from £2,429 per person full-board including drinks, tours and tips. Flights cost extra. Departs March 30.

3. Wellness break at sea

March is not only a good time to spring-clean the house, but also to get the body back in shape after a winter of festive excess. Land-based gyms are costly and boring. Keep fit on one of AmaWaterways’ new wellness river cruises, however, and you’ll not just save your pennies, but be jogging, stretching and cycling to a different backdrop every day.

AmaWaterways (0800 320 2335; amawaterways.co.uk) offers a seven-night Taste of Bordeaux cruise round-trip from Bordeaux from £2,111 per person full board including twice-daily fitness classes, drinks with meals and tours. Flights extra. Departs March 29.

4. Gardens in Holland

In Holland, seven million tulip bulbs are planted each year in Keukenhof gardens, creating wonderful displays. If you’re quick enough to secure a cabin on Telegraph ToursHolland in Bloom cruise, you can enjoy them in the company of gardening expert and TV presenter Carol Klein. She will also be offering tips and talks during the cruise, while The Telegraph’s gardening writer Helen Yemm is hosting a live version of her Thorny Problems advice column.

Emerald Waterways (03331 227 907; telegraph.co.uk/travel/tours) offers an eight-day Holland in Bloom cruise, with Carol Klein, round-trip from Amsterdam from £1,695 per person full board, including flights, drinks with meals, tours and tips. Departs April 12.

5. Castles on the Rhine

There will most likely be a winter chill in the air on the Rhine in April, but don’t be put off. Spring is a busy time on the river as cruisers rush to beat high summer prices, trees begin to blossom and the café culture in Holland, Germany and France kicks in. Scenic’s Rhine cruises visit all three countries: sail through the castle-strewn Rhine Gorge and end your cruise in Switzerland.

Scenic (0808 120 9126; scenic.co.uk ) offers an eight-day Rhine Highlights cruise from Basel to Amsterdam from £2,770 per person including flights, all meals, drinks, tours and tips. Departs April 23.

10 fairy-tale castles you must visit in your lifetime

6. Wildlife in Myanmar

Swap a chilly European spring for the warmth of Asia on a Pandaw cruise around the Irrawaddy Delta in Myanmar. This is a true adventure, visiting towns, markets, temples, churches and mosques where Westerners are a rarity, and also a wildlife reserve where saltwater crocodiles lurk. Sign up quick as there are only two departures in 2018, both in March, on a vessel that holds just 32 passengers.

Pandaw (0208 326 5620; pandaw.co.uk) offers a seven-night Great Irrawaddy Delta cruise round-trip from Yangon from $2,117 (£1,575) per person full-board including drinks, tours and tips. Flights extra. Departs March 18.

7. Cherry blossom in Berlin

Cruising the Elbe in spring is not just a good excuse for seeing cherry blossom in Berlin but also a fairly sure way of avoiding the low water that plagues the river most summers – and which, incidentally, means few cruise lines dare to sail here, so capacity is very limited. Among rewards for booking fast are visits to Wittenberg, the birthplace of Protestantism; Meissen, famed for its porcelain; and the beautiful city of Dresden.

CroisiEurope (020 8328 1281; croisieurope.co.uk ) offers a nine-day cruise from Berlin to Prague from £1,794 per person full- board including drinks. Flights extra. Departs April 4.

Europe’s most beautiful rivers

8. Easter on the Mississippi

Easter in the US means colourful parades, eggs and bunnies, so you’ll feel at home celebrating on a Mississippi river cruise, but be aware that the holiday weekend is a favourite for Americans, so the boats fill fast. When not painting eggs, there are antebellum mansions to explore and civil war battlefields to discover on this cruise on American Duchess.

American Queen Steamboat Company (01223 568904; l ightbluetravel.co.uk) offers a nine-day Springtime in the South/Easter cruise from New Orleans to Memphis from £3,025 per person full-board including flights, a pre-cruise hotel night, drinks with dinner and hop-on, hop-off bus tours. Departs March 25.

9. Fruit trees in Portugal

June, July and August in the Douro Valley are dubbed three months of hell by the locals, so most people beat the summer heat by cruising there in spring instead. It’s a lovely time of year, with peach and orange trees starting to blossom and the tiny grapes used to make the region’s famed port wine peeking through the verdant vines that cloak the steep river banks.

Shearings (0344 874 8220; shearings.co.uk ) offers a seven-day Porto and the Douro Valley cruise round-trip from Porto from £1,256 per person full board including flights. Departs April 14.

10. Art tour in Belgium and Holland

Amsterdam’s Van Gogh Museum receives around 1.6  million visitors each year, so APT’s spring river cruise around Holland and Belgium, with a private tour before the doors open to the public, will be snapped up. There’s more Van Gogh on offer at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem, plus a visit to the former home and studio of Rubens in Antwerp.

APT (0800 046 3002; aptouring.co.uk ) offers an eight-day Springtime in Holland and Belgium cruise round-trip from Amsterdam from £2,795 per person full board including flights, a private visit to the Van Gogh Museum, drinks, tours and tips. Departs April 20.


Latest in River Cruises

With the rising popularity of river cruising, agents likely have more existing clients and prospects who want to know more about this vacation choice. It’s not a one-size-fits-all product. River lines have itineraries with eclectic routes, regions and themes.

Vineyards, Vintages and Varietals: For guests who enjoy wine tasting and exploring viniculture, but prefer to vacation within North America, American Queen Steamboat Company’s “Toast to the Pacific Northwest” is an option close to home. American Empress sails through areas of eco-beauty, guests explore local culture and heritage, and within Washington and Oregon, cruisers can meet with local wine makers for exclusive onboard tastings and pairings of their varietals.

American Empress’ Suites with Veranda offer river views from four stories above the river.

During the itinerary’s time in Portland, for example, guests can choose the “Limited Edition Excursion: Vintages of the Willamette Valley,” which is included in the cruise fare. Cruisers will travel through Washington County for a wine-tasting tour that visits either Duck Pond Cellars, The Four Graces, Stoller Family Estate or Erath Winery.

This voyage begins (November 12 and 19) with a hotel stay in Vancouver, WA. Guests then embark the ship, cruise to The Dalles, an area famed for its canyon walls and volcanic formations, as well as to Astoria, OR, and Stevenson, WA, home to art galleries and restaurants. The ship then sails to Portland, OR, and the cruise ends back in Vancouver.

Iberian Flavors: Cruising from Porto, Portugal, AmaWaterways’ 106-passenger AmaVida sails on the seven-night “Flavors of Spain and Portugal.” Within the Douro River Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, cruisers will see vineyards, dramatic gorges, terraced hillside and small towns like Pinhao, popular with wine lovers.

Within the Douro River Valley, cruisers on AmaWaterways’ AmaVida will see vineyards, terraced hillside and small towns such as Pinhao, the Tras-os-Montes region and Entre-Os-Rios village.

At Pinhao, AmaWaterways’ guests will experience a Quinta de Avelada lunch and an exclusive private tour of Quinta do Seixo’s wine cellars before sampling some of the wines. Your clients can add a three-night Madrid pre-cruise stay and a three-night Lisbon post-cruise stay. To help guests view the region’s natural beauty and viniculture, AmaVida features balconies in the majority of its staterooms and suites, which range up to 323 square feet.

Mark Twain Tribute Cruises: On multiple Upper Mississippi River cruises in 2018, American Cruise Lines explores Hannibal, MO, with strong links to Mark Twain and his characters, such as Tom Sawyer, Becky Thatcher and Huckleberry Finn. The cruise starts in St. Louis, where guests get a one-night pre-cruise stay before port calls at Hannibal as well as Davenport, IA, home to the world’s largest agricultural exhibit and several musical festivals.

Next, the cruise visits Dubuque, IA, La Crosse, WI, and Red Wing, MN (home to bald eagles), and concludes at St. Paul, MN. Operating this itinerary are the 185-passenger America, which was launched in 2016, and the 150-passenger Queen of the Mississippi. Top digs on both ships include the 445-square-foot Owner’s Suite with a private balcony, floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors, spacious seating area, desk and hotel-size bathroom. Next is the 328-square-foot AAM category suite with private balcony.

Rhine Journey With Jewish Heritage: In 2018, Uniworld’s “Remarkable Rhine,” is a new itinerary for the luxury line. This nine-day cruise on 130-passenger River Empress from Basel to Amsterdam offers special access to certain museums, active adventure options ashore and regional cuisine. All these cruises also feature Jewish heritage themed excursions and onboard activities.

For example, in Strasbourg, France, guests can choose from an exclusive “Do as the Locals Do” Strasbourg walking tour; an exclusive guided “Let’s Go” Strasbourg by bicycle; or Jewish Heritage, Alsace’s Jewish past. Among ports visited are Speyer, Frankfurt, Cologne and Oberwesel (Bacharach) Germany; the latter is an ancient village with a storybook feel.

Mekong Majesty: For those seeking an in-depth experience in Southeast Asia, one 2018-2019 option is Scenic Cruises’ 17-day “Highlights of Vietnam, Cambodia & Luxury Mekong” itinerary between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. It begins in Hanoi with touring and a two-night Halong Bay cruise on the Au Co, before guests take a flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, for a three-night stay and touring of Angkor. They then board the Scenic Spirit at Kampong Chan.

Guests visit small villages, temples and agricultural areas before arriving in Phnom Penh to explore the Grand Palace, and on another day head for the Killing Fields or participate in a Khmer cooking demonstration. Another option is a fun Tuk Tuk tour of Phnom Penh’s colonial buildings and Central Market. Then, Scenic Spirit sails to Tan Chau, where guests can visit farmers on Evergreen Island and take a ride in a Xe Loi, a bicyle-driven pedicab.

Alternatively, they can board a speedboat and visit Chau Doc’s market, a family-operated fish farm and the waterfront area. Another option this day is to visit Tra Su Bird Sanctuary. At Sa Dec in the Mekong Delta, guests will stop for tea at the home of Huynh Thuy Le who inspired Marguerite Duras’ novel “L’Amant”. Then the cruise concludes in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) for a two-night stay.

Yangtze Discount Deal: Let the Sinophiles among your clientele know that Victoria Cruises has a money-saving fall promotion on its four-day Chongqing to Yichang sailings on China’s Yangtze River and also the five-day reverse itinerary. Guests who book the line’s shore excursion package by November 30 qualify for a buy one / get one free deal for Superior Cabins or 40 percent off per person for Executive Suites. Offer is valid on new bookings only.

Blue Danube: New for 2018 is a robust Tauck itinerary, the 14-day “Royal Danube, Berlin & Krakow” itinerary, which begins with an included three-night hotel stay in Berlin at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski; two days of guided Tauck sightseeing are included. Guests then travel by high-speed train to Nürnberg, where they’ll embark Tauck’s Savor riverboat to begin a seven-night cruise along the Danube that calls at Kelheim, Straubing, Linz, Krems and the Wachau Valley before arriving in Vienna.

Along the way, guests have a choice of sightseeing — ranging from history-focused excursions exploring World War II to a walking tour of Jewish heritage sites to a visit to a BMW automobile factory. The itinerary concludes in Krakow, Poland, with an included three-night hotel stay, again with guided Tauck sightseeing. From there, guests who so choose can take an optional visit to Auschwitz.

For the coming year, Tauck is ramping up its shore excursions, adding a second option in many locations to give its guests a choice of experiences to better match their interests.

Many other lines also sail the Danube, including Riviera Travel, a well-known U.K. river cruise operator now promoting and selling cruises within the North American market. In 2018, it will operate a seven-day Blue Danube cruise roundtrip from Budapest on multiple vessels including the 169-passenger Thomas Hardy.

Avalon Waterways offers an 11-day “From the Inca Empire to the Peruvian Amazon” itinerary, giving guests a chance to visit Machu Picchu.

Amazon Adventure: If clients have “been there, done that” in Europe, they may want to experience a South American cruise. Avalon Waterways offers “From the Inca Empire to the Peruvian Amazon,” an 11-day cruise roundtrip from Lima. Guests will take a guided tour of Lima’s Larco Herrera Museum and sit down to a special welcome dinner in an ornate family-owned mansion.

They’ll then fly to Cusco and descend into the Sacred Valley of the Incas for guided tours of the ceremonial site of Kenko and the Temple of Sacsayhuaman. The highlight for most travelers is Machu Picchu, built around 1450 at the height of the Inca Empire atop a mountain.

Next, cruisers will fly to Iquitos to begin their Amazon cruise onboard the 44-guest Delfin III, which features four different styles of suites with floor-to-ceiling picture windows. Guests will sip fine wine, dine on Peruvian cuisine, and experience all-inclusive features and naturalist-guided panga rides through the river tributaries. Guests also can swim with pink dolphins, visit small native villages and more.

Into Africa: For those with a bucket list item of seeing African wildlife in their natural habitats, CroisiEurope will take clients into Southern Africa with 12-day itinerary that visits South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia. This adventure includes a Chobe River cruise, a stay at CroisiEurope’s lodge, land-and-water safaris and a visit to Victoria Falls. Weather permitting, guests will take a helicopter ride over the falls.

A highlight is heading out on small boats for encounters with animals that dot the shores. Guests will sail on the new African Queen, built in 2017. It has eight cabins (six suites and two suites with a balcony); all open to the outside. It features a panoramic lounge, bar and restaurant, as well as a large observation deck.

Myanmar Dreams: Those who’ve been to Asia may not have been to the Irrawaddy Delta in Myanmar. Pandaw offers a seven-night cruise roundtrip from Rangoon with no single supplement on select dates. This travels to off-the-beaten-path territory where guests will explore the country’s wetlands, creeks and channels.

For example, on day four, guests will take a morning cruise along the great Bassein River. Bassein is the delta’s capital and an important seaport. Highlight? Monk’s waxed cloth umbrellas are made here and guests will explore the town, shrines and vibrant market.

Ooh La La Paris: Emerald Waterways offers a “Paris & Sensations of Southern France” itinerary, a 10-day journey between Paris and Nice, on the Rhone / Saone. Guests arrive in Paris for two days, then head to Lyon where they board their cruise, and travel to Chalon-Sur-Saone and Beaune, Macon, Tournon, Avignon and disembark at Arles. In Arles, guests will take a walking tour that includes the exterior of the old Roman Amphitheatre, originally built to accommodate 20,000 spectators.

Emerald Waterways’ Panorama Balcony Suites afford expansive views on its “Paris & Sensations of Southern France” cruise and other itineraries.

Christmas Markets: From holiday markets with handicrafts to hot mulled wine and gingerbread cookies, November and December are magical times in cities with annual Christmas markets. Crystal River Cruises’ new Crystal Mahler is among the options for seven- or nine-day getaways exploring Europe’s Christmas markets along the Danube, Rhine and Main Rivers. This vessel sails later this year from Amsterdam, Budapest or Nuremberg. Onboard, Crystal’s guests will dine on farm-to-table cuisine with many regional specialties. They also receive unlimited fine wines, champagnes, premium spirits, beers and unlimited soft drinks and bottled water in-suite. In addition, guests can order room service 24 hours a day, including selections from Waterside Restaurant. All accommodations are suites with a king-sized bed; all have butler service.

Other river cruise lines also ply the world’s waterways. Increasingly, demand is strong and agents can expect new experiences and operators as the market continues to grow.

The Changing Face of River Cruising

The Changing Face of River Cruising

Viking River CruisesViking River Cruises’ Freya

By Allan E. Jordan 2017-09-03 20:20:09

After more than a decade of rapid growth, the river cruise segment is showing its first signs of maturation. The pace of new ship introductions and passenger growth is slowing from the peaks experienced earlier in the decade, and the industry is diversifying to fuel its future growth.

“We all remember when demand outpaced capacity and you needed to book your customers 18 to 24 months in advance,” recalls John Lovell, president, Travel Leaders Network, Leisure Group & Hotels. Driven by aggressive advertising programs, river cruising became the fastest growing segment of the travel industry. Between 2004 and 2015, the compound annual growth for North American-sourced river cruise passengers was a staggering 14 percent, compared with three percent for the more developed ocean cruise business.  In 2016, 1.4 million people sailed Europe’s rivers, with 40 percent coming from North America and 30 percent from Germany.

The aging baby boom generation’s affluence and desire for new experiences helped to fuel this growth. “The largest target market is baby boomers,” says Lori Sheller, vice president of cruise development at Tourico Holidays, a travel wholesaler. But with demand slowing, “we are slowly seeing changes in the river product to accommodate families and even Millennials,” Sheller says.

More amenities

With over 150 new ships competing on the market, river cruise operators are now offering traditional travel industry promotions, like free or reduced airfare, gratuities, onboard credits and beverage packages. River cruise lines are also beginning to compete by installing more luxurious amenities. Viking River Cruises took a quantum leap in 2012 when it introduced its Longship design, which features suites, private verandahs and an outdoor dining area while also increasing capacity. Viking now has a fleet of 45 Longships sailing in Europe.

In order to attract new market demographics and appeal to changing travel patterns, the river cruise lines are also introducing new marketing programs. Viking, for example, launched a direct marketing program in China with three European vessels dedicated to the Chinese market.

AmaWaterways is introducing hiking and biking excursions, food and wine experiences, and multigenerational travel including programs with Disney and Backroads. Many of the ships are also offering wellness travel with onboard exercise facilities, pools and spas.

New competitors

Several new competitors are entering the river cruise market, including Crystal Cruises, one of the leaders in luxury ocean cruising. Crystal is introducing four new deluxe vessels they are calling “river yachts,” with all-suite accommodations and butler service. Another ocean cruise line, Fred. Olsen Cruises, has announced plans for its first river cruise program in 2018.

The most closely-watched launch may be U by Uniworld, a new brand dedicated to the 21 to 44-age bracket. Uniworld is targeting Millennials by offering a more contemporary look onboard, longer port stays, and shore programs that incorporate local bars, restaurants and adventures.

Global growth

The industry is also experiencing growth in other parts of the world, including China, and a resurgence on the Mississippi River and its tributaries with the American Queen Steamboat Company. High consumer satisfaction with river cruising is also driving the global expansion with travel agents reporting that customers who liked their European river trips are now looking to more exotic itineraries, like cruises on the Amazon and Mekong.

Despite its strong growth, river cruising is still not a “mainstream” product, according to many industry analysts. Given the new entrants to the market and the improved marketing programs, analysts forecast annual growth of five to six percent. “We’ve started to see a more normalized growth rate, but still very healthy growth,” concludes Lovell. “River cruising continues to rank as a top vacation option with our customers.”

River Cruising

(written by Ted Blank for Forest Lake News)

Have you dreamed of gliding along Germany’s Rhine River, admiring the castles and medieval cities? How about sipping a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir as you follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark on the Columbia River? Or, for the more adventurous, discovering the magic of the Temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia on a Mekong River Cruise.

River cruising has become tremendously popular in the past five years. Chances are, you know of a friend or a family member who has enjoyed a river cruise, and you might even be thinking about one yourself. However, you probably have some questions that I’ll answer in this month’s column. I’ve enjoyed five river cruises myself, and recently returned from my sixth – a wine tasting voyage along the Columbia River in the Pacific Northwest.

River cruises represent a mix of people, including avid ocean cruisers, land tour takers, and independent travelers who enjoy discovering the world on their own. United by a passion for knowledge, culture, heritage, and culinary delights – food, wine, and beer – river cruisers are seeking a destination-focused vacation full of authentic experiences at a relaxed and civilized pace. Most river cruisers are well traveled people who dislike being rushed or herded while on vacation, but enjoy the time to really immerse themselves in a destination.

Demographically speaking, river cruisers tend to be mature. The average age of passengers on the 20 largest river cruise lines is about 62. Recently, however, some cruise lines have added new programs to encourage younger, more active travelers to cruise. Free bicycles, hiking tours, new and exciting shore excursion programs, beer tasting cruises, and dedicated family cruises are becoming common. In fact, Disney now offers a variety of river cruises throughout Europe specifically for families with young children!

The reasons to experience a river cruise are varied, but most cruisers appreciate the comfortable or luxurious surroundings, the intimate size of the vessels (80 to 150 guests, typically), and the freedom of only having to pack and unpack once. Flexible sightseeing excursions – typically included in the all-inclusive cruise fare – and nonstop scenery are also important benefits to river cruising. Truly, though, it is the magical combination of these factors that makes river cruising so popular. The only danger of river cruising is that you might get hooked. Many river cruise line boast repeat passenger rates of over 90 percent, so first-time river cruisers are highly likely to come back a second, third, or even fourth time to explore a different part of the world.

Each day on a river cruise is unique, but typically combine delicious gourmet meals, scenic cruising, and an opportunity to explore a historic city, cultural attraction, or natural feature on land. On some cruises, truly gourmet meals and fine wines enhance the experience. Cabins are comfortable – typically larger than those on an ocean cruise ship – and most feature private balconies or large windows to enjoy the panoramic views. The small size of the ships allows them to offer a high level of personal service. Entertainment includes presentations, tastings and demonstrations by local experts, or perhaps a local musical performance. Amenities also typically include fitness facilities, a choice of dining options, and sometimes a pool or hot tub.

River cruises on Europe’s main rivers – the Rhine, Danube, Seine, and Rhone – are a great way to discover Europe’s treasures. Closer to home, river cruises operate on the Mississippi, Columbia and Snake system, and the St. John’s River in Florida. Further afield, the Amazon in South America, Mekong and Irawwaddy in Asia, and Nile in Africa are also popular river cruising destinations.
Over 20 companies offer river cruises worldwide, ranging from the luxurious to the budget. On my website, www.ingenioustravels.com, you can read more detailed blog posts about several of the river cruises I’ve personally enjoyed. Happy travels!

Ted Blank is a Forest Lake-based travel agent and owner of Ingenious Travels.



Mistakes You Can Make on a River Cruise


(This article was recently posted on Wendy Perrin site. You might want to check out her site as she has some good information)

Contemplating a river trip in Europe? It’s all the rage nowadays, and river cruise lines are racing to introduce new and better ships to meet the insane demand from travelers. A river cruise is a scenic and effortless way to travel, for sure, but take heed: Many of the rules that apply when choosing a hotel or a big ocean cruise ship don’t carry over to river boats. To get the best value for your dollar, here are seven things to keep in mind. (I’ve illustrated these seven things with photos from my trip on the Seine last week, from Paris through Normandy, aboard Avalon Waterways’ new Avalon Tapestry II.)

Mistake No. 1: Splurging on a balcony
You’d probably assume a balcony is critical—for the view, the fresh air, the photo ops, the extra space, the privacy. A balcony is a big plus at a resort and on a huge ocean ship, but on river boats it can actually be a drawback: River ships have a width limit (so that they can fit through locks), which means that cabins can only be so wide, which in turn means that a balcony takes away from your interior room space. If it’s chilly or raining—as it sometimes is—you’ll value the interior room space more than the balcony. Also, a balcony lets you see only one side of a river, whereas elsewhere on the ship you can see both sides at once. And who wants to miss half a river?

This is why many savvy river cruisers opt for a “French balcony” instead of an “outside balcony.” A French balcony is a glass door or wall-to-wall window (here’s an example) that opens to give you fresh air and the feel of a veranda, minus the outside floor, tables, and chairs. The best such pseudo-balcony I’ve seen is on Avalon Waterways’ newer ships. The outside wall of the cabin is floor-to-ceiling glass that stretches 11 feet wide and slides open 7 feet wide. Basically, it turns your whole room into a veranda.

Cabin aboard Avalon Tapestry II

My cabin (#312) aboard Avalon Tapestry II on the Seine River in Normandy.

Avalon calls these cabins “Panorama Suites.” Technically, they’re not actually suites: Each is one room that measures 200 square feet and has a comfy sitting area (a chair, a loveseat, and a table) overlooking the water. The bed faces the view—a bed position that is unusual for river ships and is a nice touch, as the view is the first thing you see when you wake in the morning (unless you’ve drawn the curtains, you’re in a lock, or another ship is parked alongside you—which is a reason why most people do draw their curtains at night).

With cabins that transform into open-air terraces, who needs a balcony?

View from a cabin aboard Avalon Tapestry II

Looking out my window from the other side of the bed.

Mistake No. 2: Assuming that your whole itinerary is on the river
The beauty of a river cruise is that it’s a picturesque and easy way to see towns and cities along a river. Typically, the ship drops you off in town, and you can choose to walk around and explore on your own (always my preference) or take a walking tour or bus tour with a group from the ship. Sometimes passengers are bussed to sights an hour or two (or more) away from the river. And sometimes those bus tours can mean missing whole stretches of the river. On the Seine, for instance, opting for the bus tour to Honfleur or Normandy’s WW2 landing beaches could mean missing a picturesque stretch of the river because the bus picks you up at one port and drops you off at the next. (Which is why, on last week’s cruise, I opted not to go to Honfleur or the landing beaches.)

Riverscape on the Seine

If I’d opted to go with everyone on the bus, I would have missed riverscape like this.

So find out whether the cruise line and itinerary you’re considering may force you to choose between the river itself and the sights away from it—and whether those stretches of river are not-to-be-missed picturesque or okay-to-miss industrial. A good cruise director will answer these questions honestly and accurately, and Google Earth can help too. If the cruise director can’t tell you which stretches of the river are most interesting, do what I do—even though technically it’s not allowed: Knock on the wheelhouse door, befriend the captain, and ask him (at a moment when he’s not busy steering around barges or into locks). Captains always know.

Don’t bother spending precious time attempting to find out where your ship will dock in each town. We choose hotels for their location, of course—so it’s understandable that you’d want to know where a ship will be situated—but, for the most part, they all dock in the same spot. Some ships might have better real estate in certain cities. In Budapest, for instance, Viking’s spot isright under the Chain Bridge. As a general rule, though, all the ships park in pretty much the same area—and, to some degree, where they park can’t be known far ahead anyway. In Passau aboard Viking, we docked in one spot and then later the ship moved several slips downriver.

Parking the Avalon Tapestry II in Paris

Parking the Avalon Tapestry II in Paris

Mistake No. 3: Insisting that your ship have a gym and a pool
I want these in a hotel or on a giant cruise ship as much as the next person, but the fact is, on river ships, you rarely see anyone in the gym (which is tiny and only minimally equipped) or the pool (which is equally tiny except on some Uniworld ships that have gorgeous indoor pools and some AmaWaterways ships that have a relatively spacious pool with a swim-up bar). There just isn’t enough time to use the gym or pool, as you’re off the ship exploring all day. And if you’re not off the ship, chances are either it’s night time or you’re gliding down a significant stretch of river that you won’t want to miss. Cruise-line execs keep gyms and pools on ships as marketing tools to get travelers to choose their ship, but the reality is that you likely won’t end up using either.

Here’s the ship’s gym

Here’s the ship’s gym.

Hot tub on the Avalon Tapestry II

The ship has a hot tub, although I never saw anyone use that either.

Mistake No. 4: Choosing a ship based on the number of passengers
Most people I know, when choosing a hotel or an oceangoing cruise ship, veer away from anything too huge. But on Europe’s rivers there are only two sizes of cruise ship: 110-meter vessels (which hold about 128 passengers each) and 135-meter vessels (which hold about 166 passengers each). Viking’s longships squeeze 190 passengers onto a 135-meter ship, which competing cruise lines say make it feel crowded. Honestly, though, I sailed on a 190-passenger Viking ship and, other than chairs spaced close together in the observation lounge and trouble finding seats for my party of four at dinner one night, the ship didn’t feel crowded to me. (Then again, I grew up in Manhattan, so my definition of “crowded” may differ from yours.) Nor did I experience less personal service on Viking, partly because Viking (unlike other river cruise lines) has a dedicated concierge who provides such service. If I were you, instead of choosing among river ships based on the number of passengers, I’d choose based on factors that I think will affect your trip more—namely, itinerary, river landscape, cabin type, and like-minded fellow passengers.

Mistake No. 5: Booking the least expensive cabin
In a hotel it can make sense: Choose the lowest-category room at a fabulous property, so you can take advantage of everything the hotel offers, and use the room just for sleeping. On a river cruise, though, the least expensive cabin can be really tight—170 square feet or less—with small windows that don’t open. It’s usually worth the several hundred dollars more to get a French balcony. The aforementioned Avalon “Panorama Suite” cabins cost about $100 more per person per day than the ship’s lowest-category rooms. They’re worth it.

Mistake No. 6: Assuming you can dine on your own
In a hotel or on a megaship, it’s easy to stick to yourselves, but on a river ship, there’s a lot of forced socializing. Every night there’s a four-course (at least), two-hour (at least) dinner where you’re seated at tables with other passengers, some of whom you just met. I’ve made some great friends at these chance meetings, but I’ve also been stuck with some louts. Viking is the only river line I know that provides an alternative venue where you can grab a half-hour dinner on your own if you just don’t feel like making chit-chat with strangers.

Mistake No. 7: Assuming there’s room service
Room service is a given in hotels, and it’s usually free on ocean cruise ships, but on river ships it barely exists. On certain ships, in certain cabins, you can get a room-service breakfast, but you almost never can get a room-service dinner. (Avalon is now offering room-service dinner for a fee of 20 euros, so you can dine in the privacy of your own room, overlooking the water.)

It’s not clear to me why you’d ever need a room-service breakfast, though, given that on many ships food is available in the observation lounge—which is no more than a 30-second walk from your cabin on these small ships—starting at about 6 a.m.

“Early risers’ breakfast,” in Avalon Tapestry II’s observation lounge

“Early risers’ breakfast,” in Avalon Tapestry II’s observation lounge, precedes the regular breakfast buffet in the dining room.

Attention, caffeine addicts: Don’t expect to find an in-room coffee machine in most river-ship cabins. You really don’t need one, though: Every vessel I’ve sailed on has a fancy coffee machine mid-ship (either off the lobby or in the observation lounge) that whips up espressos, cappuccinos, and machiattos, plus there’s hot chocolate, an assortment of teas, and snacks such as cookies and fruit. And that coffee machine is never more than a 30-second walk from your cabin. In fact, on the Avalon Tapestry II, there are two such coffee set-ups—one in the front lounge, one in the back lounge. Which means coffee is never more than 15 seconds away.

Coffee machine in the back observation lounge of Avalon Tapestry II

The coffee machine in the back observation lounge of Avalon Tapestry II is one of two coffee-and-tea set-ups aboard the ship.

Finally, one mistake you are too smart to make: Assuming the Wi-Fi will work at all times
The good news: The Wi-Fi on river ships is free. The bad news: It comes and goes, depending on whether you’re in a lock or on a remote stretch of the river or the other passengers are sucking up all the bandwidth. Where you’ll have Wi-Fi and where you won’t is unpredictable—and none of the river lines are better or worse at providing it—so just know that, generally speaking, your best windows of connectivity are when you’re not in a lock and other passengers are off the ship or have gone to sleep. Know that coffee shops in towns along the way offer better and free Wi-Fi. Also know that nobody requires more frequent Wi-Fi than I do, and a river ship is actually one of the best working environments I know: You can sit at your laptop for hours yet have an ever-changing view.

As an example, here’s a fellow passenger at work in the observation lounge aboard Avalon Tapestry II. It’s Gene Sloan, who writes Cruise Log for USA Today—and here’s what Gene had to say about Avalon’s panorama-view cabins.

Viking River Cruises

THE RAIN STOPPED, clouds parted and a glowing sunset bathed the ancient city of Koblenz, Germany, in light. There, at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine rivers, Viking River Cruises celebrated 20 years and christened its two new Longships for 2017, the Herja and the Hild. The newcomers will sail the Rhine on a new route, Paris to the Swiss Alps. These latest additions mark another year of strong growth for Viking, which now operates 48 Longships. The company launched its third ocean ship, Viking Sky, in February and will add a fourth, Viking Sun, in November, making it the largest small-ship ocean cruise line with the youngest fleet. We sat down with Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen, who announced more news for Viking River Cruises and added that it will be the first foreign company allowed to have a license to operate ships along the Nile River. The new ship named Viking Ra (Hagen decided on the name that day) will begin sailing in March 2018. Hagen eschews the label of “luxury,” saying instead that Viking strives for “understated elegance with great attention to detail” on all the ships. Touting “large bathroom amenity bottles that are easy to open,” he tells the story of the difficulty he once had opening a shampoo bottle in a hotel shower, then goes on to cite the ship’s “heated tile floors and towel racks, and no-fog bathroom mirrors.” The Hild has large, two-door showers and a daylight-lighted bathroom mirror. As for international upheaval around the globe, Hagen’s response is practical. “The Viking motto is ‘Exploring in comfort,’ and we take safety very, very seriously,” he says. “We carry a Norwegian flag when we travel worldwide. At the end of the day, I think it is more interesting to see things than to sit home and be afraid,” he adds. Viking now owns 60 of the docking spaces along the Rhine and its operating destinations include a new river cruise to Ukraine, also scheduled for 2018. “We take great pride in owning and operating our ships. We don’t have partners as we like to be in charge of our own destinations,” Hagen says. Hagen is proud of the design and construction of the Longships as they come with more cabins (95) than other river cruise lines. Additionally, Viking has designed a larger, costlier, asymmetrical ship with stateroom balconies on one side, suites on the other, and a square bow that allows for additional accommodations. “They always put me in the best suite,” says Hagen about the Explorer Suite, which according to him is the largest of any river cruise suites (and the only one to offer room service breakfast). He indicates that the ship’s amenities wouldn’t matter, however, “if our Longships weren’t diesel electric drive, which means the aft of the ship is well-insulated and doesn’t vibrate.” The new Hild doesn’t disappoint. Even though we experienced only a fraction of the 12-day Paris to the Swiss Alps tour, it was enough to get a sense Viking’s dedication to service, cuisine and special extras. The Hild’s 39 Veranda staterooms have full-sized, private balconies and ample storage space that help to keep belongings organized and out of sight. The top Sun Deck has a putting green; an organic herb garden, which the chef uses to garnish and flavor dishes; and ample seating space from which guests can watch mountain

goats navigate steeply set vineyards, and view castle ruins standing high on the hills or set within the river itself. As the Hild sailed leisurely past Lorelei Rock on the narrowest part of the Rhine, a lecturer regaled us with the history of the sea and the stories of the legendary maiden, while a classical duo played “Die Lorelei,” one of Germany’s most famous folk songs. Torstein Hagen calls Viking “the thinking person’s cruise,” with destination exploration being the high point. The rain didn’t stop our walking tour of Mainz, of which there are so many highlights that it’s difficult to single out one. The Chagall windows at St. Stephen’s Church — the only such windows in the country — were glowing despite the cloudy weather. A stop at the Gutenberg Museum is an ode to Mainz’s most famous resident, Johanes Gutenberg, who invented the printing press and moveable type and, in the process, changed the world forever. His Gutenberg Bibles, which now number 49 in the world from the original 180, are distinguished by their rich and unique illustrations. Guests can see the bible that Mainz’s mayor promised citizens he would (and did) bring back from a New York City auction, now valued at $20 million. During a stop at Worms and a tour of its famous cathedral and the statue of Martin Luther, we chanced upon an authentically dressed docent who introduced herself as Eva, the wife of a 16th-century bookseller. Eva delivered a monologue about Luther’s visit and asked us, “Did you see Martin Luther arrive this morning?” She was also “selling” his writings. This surprise, authentic moment that transported passengers back in time was created by Viking and was a highlight of the trip. With its popular Christmas market, the opulent opera house Napoleon built for his wife Josephine, and 342 miles of bicycle lanes, one not-to-miss excursion in Strasbourg is the optional “Taste the Best of Alsace” walking tour. Stops include a boulangerie, boutique wine and cheese shops, and the unforgettable Christian, a chocolatier opened in 1960 and now a second-generation patisserie salon known for the world’s rarest chocolates (more than 60 from around the globe) — especially pastries and chocolate drinks favored by Marie Antoinette. These are all crafted by a team of 24 chocolate chefs. It is even heavenlier and more decadent than it sounds. Back on the Hild, sailing down the Rhine, we watched the ever-changing terrain through floor-to-ceiling windows, chatted with new friends over a glass of Alsace Pinot Noir, nibbled on foie gras the chefs sourced that day at the Strasbourg open-air market, and listened to the ship’s resident composer, pianist, and singer, Cezar. At dinner, soft drinks, wine and beer are complimentary, part of the line’s Viking Inclusive Value that also covers the meals themselves, shore excursions and Wi-Fi. “People don’t want to be nickeled and dimed,” says Hagen. Guests can also opt for the beverage package, which, at $20 a day, opens the door to such indulgences as Brunello wine or Glengoyne 21-year-old Highland single malt scotch.

Benefits of Small Cruise Ships

In a cruise world where most of the advertising emphasis is on ships that carry thousands of passengers from port to port in a frenzy of activities and meals, consider that other, calmer options await.

The contemporary cruise business is not one-size-fits-all. For vacationers who may be new to the idea of cruising and are looking for a small, casual ship, I have two recommendations from recent trips on two continents.

If you are willing to share your ship only with a smaller crowd — say, about 200 fellow passengers — consider Windstar’s sparklingly refurbished Star Pride (summers in Europe, winters in Panama and Costa Rica) or floating on Germany’s Rhine River aboard Viking River Cruises’ new Viking Hild.

These are ships without water slides, whiz-bang attractions or bartending robots.

Both, however, provide gentle reminders of the joys of intimate cruising. Star Pride, like sisters Star Breeze and Star Legend, carries 212 passengers. Viking Hild, like her 47 sisters built during the past few years, carries 190.

These two vessels operate with different concepts, different styles, and different itineraries, but both offer adult contemporary experiences with good food, good service and atmospheres conducive to travelers getting to know fellow passengers. Neither requires men to pack a jacket or a tie. Typically, passengers return home with a list of email addresses, telephone numbers, and promises of meeting again on different waters.


Such small ship traveling is booming, thanks mostly to the swiftly growing cruise lines that ply the world’s fascinating rivers. Their vessels couldn’t get much larger even if their owners wanted to house more passengers: Rivers tend to be shallow, so there’s little room for cabins below the water line. Older bridges often are so low that tables, deck chairs and the captain’s controls must fold down so the ship can pass under them. Locks, built so ships can move smoothly through changes in river elevations, are lean, leaving some ships only inches to spare on either side.

The result is that most river vessels, especially the newer ones with alternative restaurants and comfy lounges, carry fewer than 200 passengers, and some fewer than 150.

Viking River Cruises’ new Viking Hild on the Danube River at Durnstein, Austria.
Viking River Cruises

Viking River Cruises, which has expanded to meet demand for modern vessels at a popular price, now serves half of all the North Americans cruising on Europe’s rivers.

Viking Hild, like her “longship” sisters, is a comfortable vessel that makes you feel at home in a floating living room with magnificent views through floor-to-ceiling windows and from the open-air top deck. Design elements include private balconies for many cabins; heated bathroom floors; and complimentary Wi-Fi and beer and wine at meals for all. An intimate aft terrace restaurant offers al fresco dining with a grill, for a lighter, simpler meal than what is served in the main restaurant.

Most of today’s river voyages are about cruising in escorted tour mode, with a free guided walk available for passengers at each port stop (and some alternative tour choices for a fee).


Among ocean-going cruise companies, most lines are building larger ships — even such luxury lines as Seabourn, which once owned the Star Pride and her two sisters, which are now part of Windstar and are owned privately by Xanterra Parks & Resorts. Seabourn’s newest ship, Seabourn Encore, carries 600 passengers.

All three Windstar motor ships, refurbished and buffed to a contemporary style, are favored by passengers for their casual atmosphere, their aft end watersports platform filled with sea toys, a comfortable dining area inside and out, and the Yacht Club high at the bow that is brighter and airier than in the ships’ earlier days. Bring two bathing suits and flip flops for off-the-ship daily excursions, especially in Central America on Zodiac wet landings to a remote beach, where the crew prepares a full lunch grilled outdoors.

One advantage of cruising on a renovated luxury ship such as Star Pride is that while the rates for a one-week trip are less than the rates charged by luxury lines, the accommodations onboard still are luxury large and include such details as marble bathrooms and a walk-in closet. Cabins, called suites, have a curtain that can be drawn to separate a spacious sitting area from the bed.

“Windstar is a magic brand,” said the line’s new president John Delaney, who formerly worked at Seabourn when that line owned the three 212-passenger motorized Windstar ships. (Windstar also owns and operates three motor-sailing vessels, Wind Star and Wind Spirit, which carry 148 passengers, and Wind Surf, with a capacity of 310 passengers.)

“Star Pride is upscale, casual, small ship sailing,” said Delaney. “We can keep an eye on each of the 212 people onboard, and we can offer activities with that size in mind.” One such special occasion each week is an elaborate dinner buffet on deck, where all the passengers and much of the crew gather to eat, socialize, and dance to a band that plays under the stars.